Crossing the Yufu-dake Pass we headed for Beppu. As we approached the Tsurumi-dake Ropeway, we took the chance. In just a few minutes the gondola brought us to 1300m, where we enjoyed the sight of Beppu and Kyushu inland, for once without breaking a sweat.
After the following decline arriving in Beppu, we parked our bicycled and relaxed. Our Ryokan was located in Kannawa district, which hosts a great variety of hot springs. We were treating our legs in a unique steam bath or cooked our whole body in a herb grass steam bath. Neverthelesd, visiting the hot sand bath was the highlight of our stay. Dressed in a Yukata, were buried up to the neck in hot sand. For 15 minutes we lay there, sweating out the efforts of the past days!

Our next milestone in Kyūshū was Beppu in Ōita Prefecture at the Pacific coast. But before leaving Kitakyūshū we visited the Toto Museum. Toto is THE manufacturer of japanese toilets. And if you read our post Toiletten you understand that japanese toilets are raising the bar in many perspectives. Over years japanese engineers succeeded to reduce the water consumption per flush from over 20L to a mere 3.8L. Besides toilets, Toto manufactures more sanitary equipments, for instance a self-powered sensor automatic faucet.
After the fascinating visit, we were struggeling the leave the city through the heavy traffic towards Beppu. Instead the faster main roads along the coast, we opted for the byway over the hills. Our thighs were aching and the legs were shaking after getting of the bike. After every ascent there follows a descend, which we fully enjoyed racing down. The stunning landscape was more than worth the detour.

Taking a break from cycling we parked our bikes for a day and set out for a day-hike. On the ancient pilgrim route to Hiko-San (1199m) we gazed at Shintō Shrines, some of them neatly embedded into the rock, Onisugi – a 1200 year old cedar at the Takasumi Shrine and stroked the bronze cow supposed to posess curative power. Autumn is coming to Kyushū and in higher elevations the mountains are starting to wear a red dress.

Along the west coast of the Sea of Japan we cycled from Yonago to Shimonoseki at the western end of Honshū. It took 7 days for 450 km. We were fighting against the coastal winds from time to time, but the ride through the scenic landscape was worthwile. Especially detouring to Izumo Taisha Shrine, Susa Hornfels and Motonosumi-Inari Shrine made the trip particularly nice.
Walking through the Underwater Pedestrian Tunnel we crossed the Kanmon Straits , leading from Shimonoseki to Kyūshū, the most south of Japans four main islands.

Reluctantely we returned our rental bikes and took the train to Hiroshima. The Peace Memorial Park containing the Peace Memorial Museum have been a must-see. There isn’t much to state here about the happenings in Hiroshima 70 years ago, except the surprise of the small size of Little Boy.
After the two recent bike trips we were up fo more. Therefore we went off to buy two bikes ?. Once we finally got bicycle racks and Ortlieb panniers we started our ride. Just before leaving Hiroshima north we made a slight detour to Miyajima, to marvel, between hordes of tourists, at the Torii in the sea. Starting from there we crossed Honshū from east to west, arriving in Yonago next to Lake Nakanumi.